In practice though, it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to wait maybe a half hour, just to let them cool down a bit for the sake of longevity. Also, on the subject of recharging, the cells’ spec sheet lists the maximum charging temperature as 113°F (45.0°C). If nothing else, if you have a multimeter you can poke around with the volt meter to try and find where the break might be. Hi Tim. the first one is in very good condition and boxed. Aside from just fitting the cells, I’m also trying to keep at least a tiny gap between the top cell and the processor above to help minimize heat transfer. I personally wouldn’t be comfortable operating a handheld game that heated to 140°F, and this says nothing of the stress the extra heat would put on the Nomad’s 20+ year old components. playing games) via the DC jack. Does the LCD screen help with battery life? Open the screen and take a look at the motherboard for the pinout of the connections. when I was testing I used a AV out cable to a CRT TV. Have you inspected the boards closely to look for any burn marks? I do. Power was still going around the board but nothing would display on either screen anymore. Any ideas what could be preventing this from going into “full” mode? I had a question regarding the wiring, I see that you removed the white wire. Hey Nick ! What you can do is cut off pin 4 of the DC to DC step down converter chip and bridge pin 1 and 2. Thankfully, it is possible to wire up the Nomad to run those PAL games at 50htz with a little bit of soldering, which we will cover in the next installment of Sega Nomad modding. My initial design was simple; hardwire the new internal cells to the Nomad’s original battery terminals (which would keep the “low batt” light functionality), then run wires from the Nomad’s DC jack to recharge the cells via a voltage step down “buck” circuit and LiPo charging circuit.
Next, the wedge I originally cut from the D-pad support post needs to be widened. I took some pictures of the build process but compared to your designs it isn’t all that thrilling to see. Your email address will not be published. I don’t recommend anyone who doesn’t have a heat gun to try and remove though. I’ve seen similar claims on other battery pack guides and sites, but never any actual proof to back it up, nor have I been able to reproduce these results having previously refurbished my own rechargeable battery pack (a 2900mAh pack totaled 4hrs,15min by my testing). The well is rather deep so it is best to use the actual screwdriver and not one of the nubs that you see for sale, as some of those will not even reach the screws inside. Sega Nomad Mods (SMS Mod / Region Mod / LCD Mod) My second Nomad has arrived today. It was working previously with the LCD mod before I did this. One of the stabilizing fins on the side is in the way of the cells’ protection boards. The first one I got was the same as the second one that didn’t work for you. Here is the Nomad motherboard with the areas that we will be working with highlighted.
The battery temperature doesn’t rise too quickly, and stays well below the 140°F (60.0°C) maximum operating temperature.
I bought the same LCD as the one that worked for you, but am only getting a blank white screen when turned on. Like i did with my first one i will install a LCD and change the battery led, also i will be showing you how to do the SMS Mod (Sega Master System Mod) that lets you play Sega Master System games and how to make a switchless Region Mod. In a game gear, pin 42 of the game slot is for resolution… Do you think if I solder wire composite in the pin 42 I will have a good resolution ? Moving graphics are so much easier to follow. less chance of fuss later. A quick note on terminology: the words “battery” and “cell” are often used interchangeably, but the terms have distinctions. Greets, yes for the old screen is a battery whore, Hi, just out of curiosity, might I be able to send my Nomad to you and have it screen-modded? I found a digital PC thermometer and attached it with a small piece of tape, and ran the probe’s wire out of the contrast dial’s slot. As for the buck and charging circuits, I found a combination unit that was perfectly rated and physically sized to fit in the remaining free space. I layered electrical tape on top to hold the charging board in place, and to insulate it against accidental contact with the Nomad’s board above. I used my Dremel drill to very slowly and very carefully grind down the top of it as much as I could. The biggest reason I picked this board though, is because it was the only one I could find with built-in LEDs to indicate charging status (red for charging, green for full). I’m sure that anyone with a Nomad will sympathize with this problem. From my research, and in my non-expert opinion, no; realistically they’ll be fine for regular use. Additionally, the new adapter actually outputs 9.25V by my measurements, which nudges us a bit further into the charging circuits input voltage range, Not including tools & misc parts I already owned. All things considered, this has worked out better than I hoped for. You could even solder the 5v line to the output of the regulator. I have tested an other mod (McWill), he asked to take off some resistanc, do you think it’s the same think with this screen ? I used my Dremel to grind down the side, but I accidentally slipped and cut into it a little… whoops!
It does help to diffuse the red charging LED a bit (which is very bright), but the green LED is surprisingly dim – not the lens’s fault, but still disappointing.
That pin is related to the GG TV tuner accessory is a mode switch. Hello, Is there a way you could mod it for me if I sent you the lcd screen,lense and lithium battery? Very sorry but apart from eBay I don’t know where you’ll find them in America. The red arrows point to Phillips screws, and the screw well that is featured by the yellow arrow is a security screw and will need a special Gamebit screwdriver to open, sometimes referred to as a Nintendo Screwdriver. Please help! Jammin! So until then, stay tuned! Sega Nomad Internal Battery Mod. So did your 12V bridge and it killed both of them. I have the recommended screen going in one this weekend, i will remove it’s power converter as well and bridge the chips. Thanks! Not worth it I think. Cut off the ribbon cable with some scissors, an exacto knife, or any sort of cutting implements that are in good condition, well oiled, with little to no rust. While the temperatures the cells did reach are warmer than ideal operating conditions, it’s well below the spec sheets 140°F (60.0°C) maximum. Required fields are marked *. I put it in to charge over night, and in the morning, the red led was still illuminated, no green.
Section view of the terminals/circuit board. Next remove the smaller screws from the motherboard and the speaker wire, then lift it up.
As an afterthought, I added a small “kill switch” inline on the B+ wire so I could disconnect the batteries from the Nomad, should (or rather, when) I need to work on the system again. Then I measured up about 8mm (the combined thickness of the new cells, plus a little extra), and ground out as close to these marks as I could. My primary concern for this mod was heat buildup. I stripped a little extra off the end of the B+ wire and made a hook shape, then soldered it to both sides of the board (see the diagram below).
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